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Many types of steel and carbide glass cutters are on the market.
There are cutters that oil the wheel as you score, others have
special handles for those who have trouble getting enough scoring
pressure. There is even a machine that looks like a small sewing
machine that applies the correct scoring pressure for you.
Two popular inexpensive cutters are 7/32" wheel diameter
Fletcher No. 07 for harder glass and the small 5/32" diameter
Fletcher No. 09 that has been tapered for pattern cutting. Both
have a ball end for running the score. The notches are not used.
A traditional glass cutter with a ball end is the basic tool
needed to work successfully with stained glass. Start with a
green 07 and a blue 09 gold ball Fletcher, then after you have
mastered the craft, you can invest in a cutter with changeable
carbide wheels, such as a Macinnes or Fletcher PSO that will
last a lifetime.
Caution: Never try to draw the cutter over a score line
twice; a new cutter can be ruined the first time.
Holding a Glass Cutter
The traditional way to hold the glass cutter is between the first
and second finger. The thumb supports the cutter on the underside
allowing a free wrist motion as the cut is made. The cutter should
be straight up and down or tipped slightly forward, the pressure
coming from the shoulder, not from the wrist or fingers, as you
draw the cutter toward you. This is the best way to cut long
strips.
To cut a small piece hold the cutter as for long cuts, apply
pressure from the shoulder, but push the cutter. This allows
you to see the wheel as you follow the mark on the glass. With
the other hand hold the glass with your finger tips and use the
thumb to help steady and guide the cutter as you push it to make
the score.
Figs A & B are used successfully by individuals who have
trouble getting enough pressure with one hand. Look at the center
of the cutter wheel; score away from you as you follow the inside
edge of the mark on the glass.
In all three examples the cutter is pushed and the score line
is made on the inside of the mark on the glass. Use the way
that is most comfortable for you.
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Bottom View
Thumb supports cutter |
Vertical
Down pressure from shoulder not fingers |
Alternative way to
hold cutter to get more pressure |
Scoring on Glass
When scoring stained glass, the pressure should come from the
shoulder and not the wrist or fingers; do not press too hard.
The glass cutter must crush a very small groove in the glass
surface. To check glass scoring pressure hold the cutter against
a bathroom scales; 10-12 pounds pressure is the amount you will
need.
| Push the cutter as you score, along
the inside edge of the mark on the glass |
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| Fig
A. |
Fig B. |
The proper amount of pressure will make a small groove with
one fracture extending down and the break will follow the score.
If too much pressure is applied, many small fractures will run
in all directions other than the one extending down from the
score line. If tiny slivers of glass fly from the score line,
you are pressing too hard.
Never score over the same score line twice. You may
permanently damage a good steel or carbide cutter.
Try to leave about 1/4" between parts. This allows enough
room to grip the glass with breaking pliers for a nice clean
break.
Cutting Sheets of Glass
You will be constantly cutting larger sheets of glass down to
smaller workable pieces. Study figs. 1 and 2 . These are basic
steps you must learn to work with stained glass. To cut glass
pieces, you will need to cut your larger stock sheets down to
a handy working size, approximately 6" squares. Score your
stock sheet from one side to the other. Always apply pressure
away from the score line. To break a strip from your stock sheet,
hold the glass securely with your thumb over the score line where
the score line runs off the edge; tap lightly with the ball of
the cutter underneath the score line. You will notice the fracture
widen. The piece should break along the score line. Tapping under
the edge to run the score may cause the piece to break completely
apart. As experience is gained, you will find that most of the
time the glass will break without running the score through at
the edge. Do not tap small pieces. Use breaking pliers to break
small pieces.
The glass pieces should be grasped with the tips of your fingers
inside, away from the edges. Never grip with the palm of your
hand. Always apply pressure away from the score line. Press the
knuckles firmly together, roll both fists out and down applying
pressure on the bottom two knuckles, bending and pulling apart
at the same time.
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Fig. 1
Tap lightly with the ball of the cutter
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Fig 2.
Press knuckles firmly together, roll both fists out and down
applying pressure on the bottom two knuckles, bending and pulling
apart at the same time.
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Never force a break. If a score does not break easily, move
and redo. Forcing the glass to break can only add to the danger
of seriously cutting yourself. Do not attempt to tap small glass
pieces, they may shatter.
Cutting Glass to Paper Pattern
The smooth fire polished side of the stained glass is usually
used facing out, this helps in keeping the lamp clean and is
the easiest side to score.
Arrange the pattern in position on the glass strips to cover
the portion you have selected. Hold the pattern in place with
a small amount of sticky tape. Mark around it with a pen that
marks on glass.
Ink pens must dry fast - such as a Sanford Sharpee felt tip marking
pen for use on plastic, glass, leather, etc. A regular felt tip
pen for paper does not dry fast enough. Use black or dark ink
to mark on light colored glass. Use gold, silver or light colored
ink to mark on dark colored glass.
Carefully mark around pattern
To score push the cutting wheel so it will score along the
inside edge of the mark; pattern marks should be on the scrap.
Do not lay the pattern on the glass and score around, the parts
will be too large.
Push cutter score inside mark on glass
As you follow the pattern make one score at a time. Push the
cutter away from you, allowing the cutter to run off the edge,
then break apart with narrow breaking pliers. Make the next cut
allowing the cutter to run off the edge and break it.
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