Brass Filigree
Tiffany studios used similar filigree on their original lamps.
This filigree is etched brass approximately 3 mil. thick. Easy
to tin, antique, and install.
Installing Filigree
We have found it best to solder the filigree in place after
the lamp is completed, cleaned and antiqued. Be sure and
leave a flat seam around the outside edge of each glass
piece that is to be covered so the filigree will lay flat next
to the glass.
Prepare the filigree for antiquing, by tinning it first. Filigree
should not be cut apart until after it has been tinned
and antiqued. Lay filigree on a flat wooden surface, clean by
rubbing with steel wool (brass conducts heat; use a heavy glove
to hold it in place) brush on a generous amount of flux, use
a clean freshly tinned soldering iron set on high heat. Rub the
surface with the flat part of the iron tip, use a very small
amount of solder, just enough to turn the surface a bright aluminum
color, do both sides, rinse and pat dry. Next antique
the inside and outside of each filigree part, try not
to get the antiquing solution on the edge, rinse and dry, cut
apart, and solder it on top of the foil overlap around each glass
part, build up a nice rounded seam and carefully antique the
edge trying not to stain the glass under the filigree. Use household
shears to cut the filigree apart.
Dragonfly Wing Filigree
The wings of the original lamps made by the Tiffany Studios
were constructed of flat streaky opal art glass. The filigree
was soldered on the outside giving a natural three dimensional
look to the dragonflies. Solder is built up to fill the gaps
where the wings are above the form. Use drops of solder to build
up layers of drops (like a swallow makes a mud nest) then smooth.
On some lamps the wings appear to lay above each other where
they overlap. Use the paper pattern and notch the tips of the
wing filigree to match the glass wing. DO NOT CUT the small round
part on the other end, this represents the wing muscle attached
at the top of the Dragonfly body. Overlap the round part near
the center of the dragonfly body.
How to Tin and Use Cast Brass Parts
Cleaning: Scrub the surface clean of any remaining
polishing compounds, oxide, or protective oils with a degreasing
detergent, hot water, and fine steel wool. Rinse and dry.
Tinning: Use generous amounts of the same flux you are
using for copper foiling before heating. The castings must be
heated above the melting point of solder so the solder will adhere
and flow easily. Use a large 150 watt soldering iron, a small
propane torch, or your own kitchen oven to get the filigree hot
enough.
A second smaller 60 -100 watt soldering iron with a small tip
will help to spread the solder into all the small openings. Wash,
rinse, and dry.
Installing: Start with the filigree first. Treat the filigree
just like another piece of glass. To fit place the filigree in
position on the SectionalForm™ with pins. It may be necessary
to file or grind the edges of the branches to get a proper fit.
If sideboards are not used: to assure that there are no
overhanging parts, hold a straight edge securely against both
the sides of the sectional form and move it along the form. The
edge of a small 6" metal ruler or any straight edge tool
works well.
The first row of foiled wrapped glass pieces may need to be modified
in order to fit to the filigrees bottom edge.
Tinning allows the brass castings to be attached by tack soldering
to the foiled glass parts without damaging the form.
These intertwined brass branches are similar to the castings
on the original Tiffany lamps. The brass branches replace hundreds
of glass parts. The sectional castings add much to the appearance
and value of the lamp. The openings between the branches were
meant to be left open to create more realism and also to vent
the heat from the light bulbs. Branches have a realistic sculptured
tree-like surface which is ready to clean, tin and install. A
1.25" diameter brass washer comes with each set. It is soldered
solidly in the aperture opening.
 
BF5 Large Tree Limb Filigree
for W18-1 Wisteria T, W18-2 Grape Vine T, W18-5 Pendant Cherry
T., W18-10 Trumpet Vine T
 
BF3 Small Tree Limb Filigree
for W10-1 Miniature Wisteria T, W10-2 Miniature Cherry Tree T,
G13-1 Begonia T
Cast spider legs similar to those used on the original antique
Tiffany Spider & Web lamps, fit our 13" diameter No.
G13-3 Spider & Web lamp. They come polished and are installed
on the outside after the lamp is completed. The spider lamp has
a 3" diameter aperture opening. A cast brass heat cap or
a spun brass vase cap represents the spider body.
 
BS6 Spider Legs for G13-1 Spider & Web T
Antique Fruit Lamp reproduction is not complete without rounded
apples and pears. Traditional curved ruby red apples and yellow
green opal glass pears were used in many of the antique lamps.
A special opal glass, which can be refired and slumped to form
a concave shape, is used. Apples and pears, in both large and
small size, are available in traditional colors as well as yellow
and green opal. The delicious apple shape, large size only, is
made in yellow and ruby red. Oranges, made with textured glass,
are also available. All small fruit is also available in cathedral
glass.
When using stained glass apples and pears it is important to
double-check the pattern. Some adjustment on pattern pieces may
be necessary to make the glass pieces fit correctly around the
glass fruit.
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Apples available in traditional buty red, as well as yellow
and green opal and cathedral (small apples only) glass.
Large apple is 3 1/4" wide X 3" high. Small apple
is 3" wide X 2 1/2" high.
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Pears available in traditional yellow/green, as well as yellow
and green opal and cathedral (small pears only) glass.
Large pears is 2 3/4" wide X 4 1/4" high. Small
pear is 2 1/2" wide X 3 1/2" high.
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Large delicious apples are available
in red and yellow opal. Same size as large apple. |
Orange shaped fruit is available
in orange texture opa adorngecathea glass. Oranges are 2/78/"
wide X 2 3/4" high. |
In many of the antique lamps, smooth round glass jewels were
used to represent clusters of grapes and accent points. Ruby
red was the color used most often in the old lamps.
When installing jewels, rough the edge with a grindstone so the
copper foil will adhere better. Only a very narrow strip of foil
is needed. Copper foil is easily trimmed with scissors.
The jewels will show up better if they are positioned slightly
above the surface of the form. Place pins under them so the rounded
part of the jewel is held above the flat stained glass.
Hand pressed jewels, turtleback tiles and scarabs have a lip
around the base of the jewel that makes foiling easier - just
foil the prepared lip.
Score as close as possible to the jewel, scarab, or turtleback
tile; use multiple scores. Use grossing pliers to break and nibble
off the excess glass, then use a grinder to smooth the lip to
about 1/32" wide and wrap with copper foil.
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B24-7 Dragonly T
Jewels accent the background and create the dragonfly eyes. |
SC7-7 Large Scarab
Lamp |
Hand pressed jewel
cross section |
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